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[DIY Hori Joystick Button Modding Guide ]

Discussion in 'Console' started by Kimble, Jul 25, 2004.

  1. Myke

    Myke Administrator Staff Member Content Manager Kage

    PSN:
    Myke623
    XBL:
    Myke623
    [ QUOTE ]
    Plague said:

    Got my buttons from excellentcom.net. 10 buttons = $10 plus $14 for EMS shipping. Took about a week after the order was placed. I paid with credit card. Easy transaction.

    Got my solder braid (to remove solder - cheaper than a pump if you don't already have one) - $1.82 for a foot or two, wires (free), slip-on connectors (non-insulated) 15 for $1, and a small pack of solder for $1.80.

    Gonna do the swap tonight.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Sounds like a Mastercard ad in the making. I'm just waiting for the:

    "Trouble-free /versus/images/commands/p.gif/versus/images/commands/k.gif/versus/images/commands/g.gifs on a Joystick fitted with sanwa buttons... PRICELESS!" /versus/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  2. Plague

    Plague Well-Known Member

    PSN:
    plague-cwa
    XBL:
    HowBoutSmPLAGUE
    OK, got some news. I used push-on connectors, really small ones at that, and the wires sticking up keep the pcb from fitting when you want to close the case.

    Tonight I will cut the wire crimping portion off the connectors and solder the wires to the backs of the connectors. To free up space and put less pressure on the wires, I will attach them perpendiclular to the insertion vector so that the wires will stick out sideways from under the PCB with no initial bend. I will only need one 180 degree bend to go back toward and under the pcb.

    I will take a picture of the results from above.

    Also, solder braid is cool when you get the hang of it. Plus, soldering itself is challenging if you've never done it before /versus/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  3. Plague

    Plague Well-Known Member

    PSN:
    plague-cwa
    XBL:
    HowBoutSmPLAGUE
    Some notes about changing buttons...

    When ordering buttons, I corresponded in english with fannie@excellentcom.net
    The customer service was great.

    Be careful if you remove the white R3/L3 buttons. It is very easy to crack the retention tabs. I fixed mine with superglue.

    I had good luck using a dremel tool to grind away the metal tabs in the /versus/images/commands/p.gif/versus/images/commands/k.gif/versus/images/commands/g.gif button holes.

    I recommend against slip-on connectors for the /versus/images/commands/p.gif/versus/images/commands/k.gif/versus/images/commands/g.gif buttons. They created clearance problems when closing the controller. I shortened my clips and bent them outward. One of the /versus/images/commands/p.gif button clips then came too close to where the main cable enters the underside of the PCB. This caused shorts and unintended button and stick inputs (Akira did dodge attack all by himself).

    To protect against shorts, I recommend covering the white plastic area where the main cable enters the PCB with electrical tape.

    Spraying your PCB with CRC brand QD Electronic Cleaner (or equivalent) helps prevent short-circuiting by removing finger oils and other contaminants.


    Good luck.
     
  4. Kimble

    Kimble Well-Known Member

    Myke,

    LOL! That's exact what went through my mind too.

    Plague,

    Good luck with the modding bro. /versus/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  5. Plague

    Plague Well-Known Member

    PSN:
    plague-cwa
    XBL:
    HowBoutSmPLAGUE
    [ QUOTE ]
    Plague said:

    Spraying your PCB with CRC brand QD Electronic Cleaner (or equivalent) helps prevent short-circuiting by removing finger oils and other contaminants.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I now recommend doing final clean-up of your PCB with Windex. The CRC QD left a little residue. I was still having "magical" inputs here and there so I went after the PCB with Windex (spray the paper towel heavily and use it to daub-clean the PCB). Dry with canned-air. Watch for paper towel shredding.

    Further reports to come when warranted.
     
  6. coNsPirAcy

    coNsPirAcy Well-Known Member

    Heres my Namco stick Mod for a customer.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Stick is a Sanwa 360 Optical (no clicking) and Sanwa buttons.

    When modding, i didnt cover the PCB with plastic or tape or anything, it isnt needed. I widen the PCB holes on the board to accommodate the Sanwa prongs so the fit is secure, and will not short. I wouldnt recommend doing it unless your good with a Dremel.
     
  7. DissMaster

    DissMaster Well-Known Member

    Help Me Out!

    Anyone want to pimp my stick? I'd pay for the parts, labor and shipping if someone wanted to do it for me. I am two busy. I have a VF4 Akira stick I'd love to get, uh, pimped. Please help.

    -A
     
  8. coNsPirAcy

    coNsPirAcy Well-Known Member

    Re: Help Me Out!

    SgtRamrod - Email me at mode879@yahoo.com and tell me what youd like done. I can mod your stick.
     
  9. Pai_Garu

    Pai_Garu Well-Known Member

    Re: Help Me Out!

    Where can you buy sanwa optical sticks?
     
  10. Plague

    Plague Well-Known Member

    PSN:
    plague-cwa
    XBL:
    HowBoutSmPLAGUE
    Re: Help Me Out!

    I realize this wasn't directed at me.

    Contact Excellent.com to see if they stock them. If they do, it should be easy to purchase.

    They don't seem to list them on the parts page. I would try anyway.
     
  11. coNsPirAcy

    coNsPirAcy Well-Known Member

    Re: Help Me Out!

    Srider - Sanwa Japan

    Excellent.com doesnt carry them. Only basic Sanwa sticks and buttons. No octagon gates, no screw type buttons, no shaft covers, no real color selection, no bat top conversion kits, etc...
     
  12. coNsPirAcy

    coNsPirAcy Well-Known Member

  13. Myke

    Myke Administrator Staff Member Content Manager Kage

    PSN:
    Myke623
    XBL:
    Myke623
    Re: Help Me Out!

    Please don't spam every joystick thread when you post. Once is enough and gets the message across.

    Thanks.
     
  14. Neko

    Neko Well-Known Member

    Re: Help Me Out!

    I just got done speaking to excellentcom and they told me i needed to order a minimum of 50 sanwa push buttons at USD 1.1/button...

    I have tried else where and at ebay but to no avail. Does anyone know where else I can order sanwa buttons without a minimum order limit? /versus/images/graemlins/frown.gif

    Thanks,

    Neko

    EDIT: Update - Got 4 red sanwa buttons from himuragames.com as Srider suggested. Came very fast with very good customer service. It also came with 4 pieces of Japanese candy, lol. I am very pleased, so far. Next is to borrow an iron and begin the soldering. ^_^
     
  15. Pai_Garu

    Pai_Garu Well-Known Member

  16. Kimble

    Kimble Well-Known Member

    Re: Help Me Out!

    [ QUOTE ]
    I just got done speaking to excellentcom and they told me i needed to order a minimum of 50 sanwa push buttons at USD 1.1/button...

    I have tried else where and at ebay but to no avail. Does anyone know where else I can order sanwa buttons without a minimum order limit? /versus/images/graemlins/frown.gif

    Thanks,

    Neko

    [/ QUOTE ]

    That's quite messed up. When i ordered them before they didn't have that rule. /versus/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  17. Neko

    Neko Well-Known Member

    Re: Help Me Out!

    Ok, this is a really dumb question. So, sorry.

    I can't tell from one of the pics that Kimble posted. Do you solder a seperate strand of electrical wire for each of the two prongs on each joystick button to the respective holes on the circuit board?
    For example, I put in a button in the guard slot and then solder a wire from one prong to one of the holes located at SW8, then I solder another seperate wire to the other prong of that same button to the other hole located at SW8.

    Does this sound correct?

    I should be done by tonight.
     
  18. Neko

    Neko Well-Known Member

    Re: Help Me Out! Just kidding...

    Finished the mod. Works pretty good. Sanwa buttons are quite sensitive, I must agree!

    My final outcome looks much like kimble's with the cardboard except the cardboard just barely covers the circuit board and i have electric tape running north south across to keep the board down.

    [ QUOTE ]
    For example, I put in a button in the guard slot and then solder a wire from one prong to one of the holes located at SW8, then I solder another seperate wire to the other prong of that same button to the other hole located at SW8.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yup, that works.

    Okay, notes on my process for those like me who have never ever done any kind of craft work like this or in general.

    Practicing soldering and de soldering notes - You may find yourself in interesting postions when trying to de solder the buttons so its good to practice soldering and de soldering wire and stuff with both hands on spare circuit boards! Also, practice stripping wires.

    1st, de-soldering - using the de solder pump in the beginning is good to remove that excess solder so you can lift the circuit board. However, when there is a little tiny solder remaining I found that pump very difficult to use to get that remaining solder. So what I did is just try to move that extra solder to the edge of the developing hole until it is free from the prong.

    2nd - removing the buttons, yes pens and pencils work but I had good luck with a screw driver.

    3rd - Filing down the joystick holes. This is a bitch, be ready. I put a piece of paper underneath the holes and over the circuit board so all the residue would not get all over it. It's not a bad idea to file all around the holes as well, not just the petruding areas. Kimble said it should fit easily, mine did not, but I got it to work.

    4th - filing the buttons, not too hard, just be sure to file underneath the lip of the button so it will fit flush to the joystick. I suggest holding it up to your face and rotating it, making sure the button surface is nice and even.

    5th - stripping the wire - ummmm, I used wire strippers, be sure to not cut/pierce the actual copper, really pay attention to that or copper can easily break off while soldering. I used 24 gauge electric wire. Cut it a little long so you have room to lift up the circuit board and do solder work. Strip the wire so that only a little copper is showing on one end, and a good bit more is showing on the other end. The shorter copper I put to the prongs and the long I stuck through the circuit board holes.

    6th - soldering - solder the short copper end onto prongs first, it really helps to have another pair of hands to hold the ciruit board or wire, especially when soldering onto the R3, L3 buttons! Bending the copper a little bit to "hook" itself into the prong holes or circuit board holes for stability also helps. Use little solder as possible and don't let the solder form to make like a bridge across the two prongs. Also make sure the wire end that is soldered is not bent at too steep of an angle. Allow some slack to the wire end going to the prong, let the wire kinda loop out a little bit. When you solder to the circuit board, again do not let the solder from the two holes touch and form to one another. The wire end should be firm and you should give a tug to make sure that the wire is not going anywhere. Don't overdue the solder! Maybe put a little solder to the iron and then use the solder that is melted on the iron tip to kinda just "push" the solder onto the prongs/circuit board. Try not to touch the board with the iron, but I did once or twice and did not mess up anything. Clip any excess wire from the circuit board that may be sticking out.

    7th - using the cardboard - test the stick before putting the cardboard on! Then, put the cardboard on like kimble said but watch the wires as you are doing this to make sure they are not being bent at any weird angles as you push down on the circuit board. Screw the plate back on and thats it!

    Mad thanks again to those in this thread, especially Kimble and Srider.

    [Turns back to finally playing VF]
     
  19. Aoimaster

    Aoimaster Well-Known Member

    Re: Help Me Out! Just kidding...

    OK, this is a really good thread, but I was just wondering if anyone knows if the street fighter anniversary stick can be modded with sanwa parts. I wanted to modd my T5 stick, but didnt want to mess with soldering, Im too lazy. The plus part of the street fighter stick is that it isnt soldered so it would be easier. Plus if anyone knows of any online store selling quality sanwa parts. Thanks
     

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