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Hori Real Arcade stick?

Discussion in 'Console' started by thebradSHow, Aug 1, 2004.

  1. thebradSHow

    thebradSHow Well-Known Member

    Hori Real Arcade specs

    I got up the energy and want to do so earlier, so I took apart the HRAP just to see what all was possible and the like and so I have the basic info on it.

    Stick: we all know it's a sanwa, but officially it's the JLF-TP-8YT (I'm pretty damn sure). For replacement reasons, all you would need would be the basic J stick though (JLF-TP-8Y). If you have seen one sanwa you have seen them all, square restrictor, the switch plate and the top locker with the base plate on it. The weirdest thing I have noticed about the base plate though it that it has 4 holes as opposed to 6. Also, the way it's mounted is kinda weird as far as things I've seen. It has a 4 sided metal plate with slightly raised screw holes so that you can screw the base plate into that. The most ingenious thing is probably the dual dust guards on it and for those who become annoyed by it, it's easy enough to remove the shaft guard on it.

    Buttons: All of them are Seimitsu buttons, with the start and select being standard 24mms and the play buttons all 30mms (interchangable with the sanwas, happs, etc. of the same size of course). It doesn't require soldering to change the buttons either (has slip over tabs that fit on the tabs). It also doesn't have the problem that alot of the other sticks have with the protruding tabs meant to keep the buttons from spinning (note that that means with some wear, the buttons will rotate a bit but it's barely noticable).

    PCB: The PCB is underneath the turbo switches on the stick. The only reason to really mention it is that if at any point and for any reason, you want to replace the wires, it might be kinda ackward because in addition to the soldering that they did, there is also some electrical glue there for extra hold I guess.

    Tools: To get into the stick, it only requires a basic phillips head screw driver to get into the back and unscrew the PCB if wanted, and a 7mm socket tool to get at the nuts on the back but it's important that it has to be a relatively long socket tool to reach one of the nuts, the top middle one. I had a multi tool so it was easier. The stick comes with a clear plastic cover over top of the reflective surface that you can remove most of by hand but you need to open it up at least to get the ones that get stuck underneath the buttons, and bolts.

    That's about all I can think of so have fun with it yall

    Just found a site with a review of the stick and pictures for those who are in need of that sort of thing. Just click here
     
  2. Shang

    Shang Well-Known Member

    Re: Hori Real Arcade specs

    This stick totally sucks, I simply cannot win with my wolf with this stick. for real.. wtf Jerky?
     
  3. Jerky

    Jerky Well-Known Member

    Re: Hori Real Arcade specs

    The stick is fine, I simply question the skill of the operator. /versus/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  4. MarkMan

    MarkMan Well-Known Member

    Just so you guys know, if you don't like the prices and shipping on the stick from various online sites, just wait a few more weeks. Hori will be entering this stick into the US scene. The company I work for is going to be the official US distributor so save up!

    I'll post more info once it is ready for sale.
     
  5. cheatah

    cheatah Well-Known Member

    Shit nice, but will they ship to Canada? =)
     
  6. Heta_Akira

    Heta_Akira Well-Known Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    MarkMan said:

    Just so you guys know, if you don't like the prices and shipping on the stick from various online sites, just wait a few more weeks. Hori will be entering this stick into the US scene. The company I work for is going to be the official US distributor so save up!

    I'll post more info once it is ready for sale.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Please let us know more...
    What is the name of your company and will you sell the stick online?
     

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