How s going on

VF3tb DC Version can only show 90% of its Arcade Version,
so what will happen on VF4 DC Version ?
i cant imagine it.

Mail me to improve my poor English please

 

just buy the naomi2 board. that's what i'm going to do.

fuck ps2. the conversion will probably be even worse than vf3 arcade -> vf3 DC, and i personally won't have any interest in any other games.

 

Naomi2

My biggest concern about buying a Naomi2 as of now is the required output specifications - Model 3 required a 24-kHz (mid-res) monitor, and that was already pretty expensive (tube+monitor itself); I'm hoping to swap the current TB board in the cabinet for the VF4 board when it comes out, but I don't know if I can go on using the same 24 kHz tube or if I'll have to get a 31 kHz or higher; that would really break my pocket.

 

Re: Naomi2

naomi(2) puts out 31khz. that's standard vga. get yourself a big, used vga monitor and you're all set. the board has a vga port right on the filterboard. so, yes, unfortunately the monitor you have for all your model1/2/3 games is totally, completely useless with naomi. you could, however, sell that one and buy a monitor which accepts almost multiple signals (standard, mid, vga), such as something like this: http://www.wellsgardner.com/wellsga...temid=596&secid=4&linkon=subsection&linkid=35

naomi(2) also puts out unamplified stereo right from the board with rca jacks, which is also exceptionally nifty.

 

Re: Naomi2

Dedicated straight-to VGA output and hassle/mod-free RCA stereo connections sound like a dream to set up, I'm looking forward to it.

I couldn't follow the link you posted (for some reason, it didn't work for me, I'm going to try later), but I'll look for available multires monitors this Monday - I'd have to find one within the country (I live in Brazil), because importing would be unreasonably high, given the weight of large tubes/monitors - Naomi boards here are almost nonexistent, for whatever reason, so there's no real widespread distribution of higher-res monitors; standard VGA monitors are easier to find, though I'd be limited to a 21-inch, at the most, and would probably have problems mounting it on a cabinet - have you done it before?

I'm starting to consider setting up a different cabinet for VF4, instead of swapping the TB board - it'd be an experience to have the two side-by-side, anyway.

One last thing, have you found any reliable technical documents on Naomi2 around the web? I'm also interested in the voltage of the power supply, if it will be a 3.3V PSU or different.

Anyway, thanks a lot for the info.

cheers,
M.

 

Re: Naomi2

i don't have an actual cabinet..my setup has (will have) the monitor/board/sticks all separate. portable.
but all it takes is some carpentry to make whatever cabinet setup you want work...

i don't know the power requirements for naomi, but i think it's the same as model3. +5 & +3.3vdc.

 

Re: Naomi2

Man
All this talk....really makes me wanna buy a N2...
Rich,
How much do think it will be?
<font color=red>SummErs 'faster than lighting'

 

Re: Naomi2

way the fuck too much. i will probably have to wait well over a year or longer for it to become somewhat affordable.
even recently released naomi1 games are $1000 - $2000 right now. although, these prices drop fairly quickly.

 

Re: Naomi2

HOHOHO

It's ok...
I have a VERY 'not smart but very fucking RICH$$$' friend.

He'll get it...and I'll get to play it.
Some members on this board 'ARE' more than welcome to play it.

Hey, hooked up with myke yet?

<font color=red>SummErs' 'PSO '

 

Re: Naomi2

which stick/button solution are you considering? I've been trying to dig up some japanese-style arcade parts (i.e. clicky stick - I love the diagonal response on those, and greater-radius, shorter-action buttons), but haven't had much luck.

Ripping out the parts from DC ascii sticks doesn't sound like a very good idea, for reasons of durability when mounted and when exposed to arcade applications - the buttons feel good enough, but the construction is a little bit on the lego side.

I've found that happ controls sticks, when tweaked a little, work well enough, although it's not quite what I'm looking for. they also sell a line of shorter action buttons, but the radius is too small.

any thoughts?

thanks,
M.

 

Re: Naomi2

Rich, could you give a serious prediction on how much it would cost? How easy is it to maintain an arcade cabinet anyway? There's a very good chance I'm going to buy one once I graduate (Summer 2002) and there's also a high probability I'm going to end up in New York for a couple of years. An N2 + VF4 + NY VFers is starting to look like a mighty salivating prospect.

ice-9

 

Re: Naomi2

This is pretty much from my understanding:

-Definitely get Japanese parts if possible. However, it seems like unless you go directly to Japan yourself, you're gonna go through hell trying to get them.

-Agetec/Ascii sticks are nothing like true Japanese arcade sticks (but I find them as a substitute and prefer them for VF over US style sticks).

-I hate Happ's Ultimate sticks... somehow these are all over the country in every arcade, but I hate them.

-I love the Happ Competition sticks and thanks Mr. Bungle for the recommendations towards those (though I've played on them for years without knowing what they were). Hell, I have two of them right in my apartment and not attached to anything (Guess that sounded wrong).

-I hear that optical sticks are a dream, though expensive (practically 3-4 times the cost of any other stick last I checked). Don't know anything about their durability.

And besides all that, I'm still hoping to find a way to get someone to ship Japanese Arcade parts on a small level here... Otherwise, i'm gonna go and get them myself some day...

-Chanchai

 

Re: Naomi2

I'm aware that homesticks are nowhere near the quality of arcade production sticks, that's why I mentioned the cheap construction - there's an OB cabinet here that miraculously still retains the original sticks/buttons on the 2P side - and I mean japanese original; the buttons are a little firmer and more responsive (I tend to think the buttons on most japanese homesticks are sometimes too loose), while not being overtly stiff;

also note that I mentioned that, with some tweaking, some happ sticks could be passable, or playable on - but only with some major tweaking on the contacts; in any case, I'm not fond of the handle-style design most common in western arcades at all - it seems that the range of motion is unnecessarily high on them, i.e. more effort means compromised execution speed.

I've heard of optical sticks, but never got a chance of testing any... no physical friction with contacts could mean greater durability, and the motion curve must be really smooth...

so, I'm looking for the best solution given the possibilities. I've been trying to get genuine japanese arcade parts, but it's been difficult - I managed to reference a couple of contacts in Honk Kong and Japan, but communication is very difficult at this point... maybe if I could convince an arcade location operator here to order on a wholesale level, it would be easier to bring them over.

 

Re: Naomi2

your only hope are friends/contacts/etc that can actually pick them up in japan and send them to you. at least, after well over a year of trying myself, that seems to be the only way it's going to happen. they're everywhere in akihabara, in shops and out in the streets. unfortunately, none of the pcb importers ever bother with components other than full cabinets and separate PCBs. sometimes control panels.

 

Re: Naomi2

ohhhh
Jap friends....
I have heaps of them....

<font color=red>SummErs' 'PSO '

 

Re: Naomi2

Just a quick note on buttons - Happ controls have the "Competition" buttons that are convexed and virtually indistinguishable from the ones on a VF3 cabinet. I'm told these are japanese standards. I have them for my home-made sticks and they're, IMO, way way better than the DC sticks' buttons.

I'm still in the process of replacing my sticks with opticals. I have the opticals, I just haven't put the time to get them done - something I've been meaning to do for a while. Kbcat replaced everything in the DC sticks with real arcade parts - keeping the case because it looks really good. His sticks are optical and the buttons are Happ Competition...IMO, I think they're gorgeous and absolutely the best sticks I've ever played on. Once my sticks are replaced with opticals, they'll be a replication of his sticks.

One of the nice things about Naomi2 is it's output to ordinary monitors. Fashioning DC sticks to be Naomi2 compatible would be easy (just rip em up) and thn you'd be flying.

cheers,

<font color=white> Llanfair the prized <font color=green>cabbage</font color=green></font color=white>

 

Re: Naomi2

i really don't know, jeff. full machine - probably well over $8000+, probably much more. that's only a completely blind shot in the dark guess.

i'm really not too well informed on the business of purchasing/leasing new arcade machines. most of my experience is with used/refurbished PCB's and machines, parts, vendors and such.
however, it shouldn't be too difficult to find out details when it's released. look in the NYC phonebook for amusements and distributors and give some of them a ring..(good luck).