KBCat: Q on replacing stick....

Discussion in 'Junky's Jungle' started by Chanchai, Oct 16, 2000.

  1. Chanchai

    Chanchai Well-Known Member

    Hey KBCat,

    Hope you can check this message (or GE, if you will, can you relay this to him or maybe even supply an answer?).

    I finally obtained Arcade Stick #3 and I'm preparing to replace the joystick with a Happ Competition Stick (based on a suggestion from Rico/images/icons/tongue.gif... Since you have the experience with the arcade stick itself, was wondering if you could lend me some tips or tell me how you did this...

    The trouble I'm having to figure out is how to actually get the stick itself out... The base as well... I've taken out the bottom panel to get an idea of what's going on and all... As for the top panel, I don't have the right size of "star-shaped" (or whatever it's called) screw driver... is it necessary to take the top panel off? The grey panel that is. It seems like it is (of course the ball seems to get in the way). If it is necessary, do you know the size of the screw driver to take out that star-holed screw?

    ________________________
    For those still curious: "Shota's Modification" (as perceived by Chanchai)
    On a sidenote, for those who wondered about Shota's modification to his arcade stick (I know many have heard of it, and probably still don't understand). Maybe Shota's better for answering this, but it seems that all it requires is this:

    1) Take off the bottom (metal) panel (unscrew the screws).
    2) Notice the bottom of the arcade stick, it's limited range is that square hole around it.
    3) Get some small tubing that will fit around the bottom of the actual stick (logic shall guide you on this one).
    4) Put the tubing around the bottom part of the stick.

    This basically makes the bottom part of the stick bigger, hence you have a smaller range of movement. It will definitely feel different... This basically solves your problems (well, after you get used to it) if you are having troubles with the arcade stick having too little of a neutral zone, basically, maybe you tapped forward twice, but all you got was one forward held down because you didn't quite hit neutral. So, instead of adjusting the neutral zone, you adjust the stick so that when you do move it, it doesn't move "too far away from" the neutral zone. On my own sticks, I don't have a trouble with that, but when I had played on other peoples' arcade sticks, I definitely felt a lack of a neutral area... If you can get used to it, or willing to try, you might want to do what Shota did and see if that suits your needs (you should take quite a bit of time to get used to them first before making a judgement call). Some people really like this modification, some people don't, but it's a good alternative for anyone having irritations with the arcade sticks as they are. I personally love them the way they are. I would like to see what Myke thinks of it though as I know he's played on arcade sticks (as well as many others, but he has quicker access to them).

    Shota: did I get all this right?

    -Chanchai

    P.S. Summers just brought it to my attention that some guy he knows has used a washer (as opposed to a small rubber tube of some sort) as a modification device in "Shota's method."
     
  2. Chanchai

    Chanchai Well-Known Member

    Q #2: Dealing with pins

    I don't have the Competition sticks yet (ordered them over the weekend), but curious... I've seen at least what an ultimate stick looks like... and I noticed that you have the small switches under the base on those... and if I understand correctly, each of those is daisy-chained to each other.... anyways... I'm blabbing.... to the question:

    Since the DC arcade stick's base is connected to the heart of the thing by a 5-wire connection, is this gonna be a big issue when I install the Happ stick?

    -Chanchai
     
  3. Llanfair

    Llanfair Well-Known Member

    Re: Q #2: Dealing with pins

    Hey Chanchai,

    I'll try and answer as many of your questions as possible. First of all, You don't need to remove the top plate of your stick - but you will need to cut an area out to accomodate the Happ stick. Ok, second, removing your stick. Just unscrew what you can, and then there's a plastic covering over the switches for the stick kept in place by four sort-of clips - if you've got your stick in front of you, you'll know what I mean. Take this cover off. As far as the 5 wire doohicky that goes to the stick's 'board' - pull it off the board carefully, it's just snapped in place. These five wires are your four directions and a ground (black). You'll also need to remove the 'E' clip to pull the stick out.
    I don't have time to keep yapping but this will give you a start. BTW, I would recommend replacing the buttons to Happ competition buttons as well - they are exactly like the buttons found on VF3 machines - a nice complement to the real sticks too!

    cheers,

    <font color=white> Llanfair the prized <font color=green>cabbage</font color=green></font color=white>
     
  4. Chanchai

    Chanchai Well-Known Member

    Re: Q #2: Dealing with pins

    BTW, I guess I never thanked you properly Llan. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!

    I just got the Happ sticks today. Hopefully everything will be ready tonight, but I don't know... Gotta figure out how much I need to drill the hole in the arcade stick. Gonna head to Portland's better known arcade for competition, Lloyd Center tonight.. Will probably bring the stuff there and see what they can help me with (friends with the manager and employees there).

    However, again, thanks a lot Owen/images/icons/smile.gif

    -Chanchai
     

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