Mad catz PCB problem

I killed my horis PCB with isopropanol, normally it shouldn't have any effect on the PCB but oh well shit happens. For such cases I got me a mad catz pad. I soldered everything nicely but only the start, back, XBB, RB, LT RT, LT, the directions and Y&A were working. Since RT or LT always got activated when I pressed start, I activated them a bit with a screwdriver after that only start, back, XBB, RT & LT are working. I cut em off but nothing changed.

The strangest thing is that if I use the stick with my PC everything is working perfectly and if I put it together into pad form it works 100% too. I'm really stuck, I've done a lot of tracing but I just can't find the problem.

 

OK got the problem! A pal helped me out. If you plan on using the mad catz PCB it's perfect if you let the adjustable resistors for the RB & LB button in thair standard position. Used some hot glue so they don't move. Now it works perfectly.

 

I've made some more tests and found out that the LB and RB buttons activate the LT and RT buttons if pressed several times. I've cut off the adjustable resistors for the LT and RT buttons but the problem remains. The only way to make the LT & RT button do nothing is to disable the buttons ingame. Perhaps it's only my PCB that has that kind of error but if the other PCB act like that too it's prbably a designing error.

 

Which MadCatz controller are you talking about? There are various including the MadCatz Arcade stick (also with different PCBs depending on the date they came out).

 

The standard mad catz Xbox 360 Game Pad

 

I found the MadCatz Wired pad too much a hassle to deal with. Therefore I always use the funny-looking MadCatz Arcade stick with which I never had problems being, IMO, the easiest, least complicated 3rd party controller that is perfect for modding.

There are two versions of the MadCatz Controller: MadCatz Controller (Earlier edition, harder), MadCatz Controller (Later edition, easier). I don't trust both of them . lol

 

Well the mad catz acrade PCB is too big and if it wasn't for that LT & RT problem the normal pads PCB would be perfect. Every button has an extra soldering spot so it's pretty easy to solder onto it.

Mine is the earlier edition.

 

You can solder resistors where the potentiometers used to be, but even then (in my experience) you can get random trigger presses.

Better to just leave it disabled in game.