Sega Blast City Joystick with Seimitsu Astro City 1L6B Panel, LS-58-01-X, and PS-14-K pushbuttons.

Putting finishing touches on a Blast City based joystick with Seimitsu 1L6B panel, LS-58 sticks, and PS-14-K pushbuttons. I have to still finish up mounting the PCB and plugging the holes in the rear. The lock latch is functional, and will be the only way to open up the stick when done. I also need to figure out what to do with the rest of the non-PKG buttons. Do I build a separate attaching piece or do I drill holes right on the Blast City panel- that's the dilemma.



Anyways Spent all Thursday soldering so I could feel the praised Seimitsu "short- throw" on the LS-58. Practiced SPODding with Akira. Ignore the sloppy technique, LOL.

 

very nice mang, I'd like to see what you did for a base on that thing.

 

Just came back from vacation to Long Beach/Phoenix to visit my brother's family, and mostly to see my 3 year old niece

I bought back some goodies...

Complex, the whole base is a Blast City upper and lower front panel. Also installed a Net City VF panel that I sent to Phoenix, and I've been waiting all this time for the vacation so I could bring it home.

I've been working on completing the stick for some time now, anyways, here's the completed product.


Blast City panel with Net City VF panel. Left the Card reader on just to stay true to the arcade look.




Cut some plexiglass and used M6 hex head screws to cover the holes that was in the rear of the stick. You can see the AMP connector sticking out so I can add the rest of the non PKG buttons, so I still have to make that extension box to house those extra buttons like SELECT, HOME, CIRCLE, etc. Didn't want to drill holes in the stick, so I went with the external option.

I really went all-out on this with use of AMP connectors. For those who wants to know the details, they are not AMP Universal Plug connectors due to their rare availability in the US, but I went with the next best thing- AMP mini universal Mate-N-Loks. You'll have to shell out for a good crimper though, but it's worth it. I went with the Hozan P-706 from Akihabarashop.jp. You can also use it for the connectors to the buttons, which give it a professional look. I'll post pics of the crimper and crimps that it can produce later.




Here's a look at the inside of the stick. Used 22 guage wire throughout. You can also see the other AMP connectors used to make hooking up another PCB a breeze. Left the card reader and that other PCB on the right side just to keep the integrity of it's arcade roots in the stick.

Cleaned the rust off the various metal parts and polished them to boot. God knows the frame was in bad shape when I got it.


I'm waiting for another shipment from Akihabara Shop so I can upgrade those OBSF pushbuttons to RG pushbuttons.




Spared no effort int he PCB also, drilled tiny holes in the pcb with a pin vise so it'll strengthen the soldering on the PCB. You can see the wires were routed from the underside to accomplish this. Used hot glue to further reinforce the wires.

You can also see the screw/nut mount I made for the PCB in the rear of the PCB.

BTW, I whole-heartedly recommend getting a good soldering iron like the Aoyue 937. http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/
It's only $55, and can can get to temp extremely quick (surprisingly so), and monitor tip temp, as well as keep the temperature steady, unlike the gradually rising temp of cheaper irons.


For the underside, I used rubber feet from Home Depot. The lock latch works, and is the only way to open up the stick.