Throw breaking

Hello all!

I'm a middling VF player who would like to be better than that. My offense is pretty powerful when I get rolling, but I know to beat the best(consistently) you have to have that D on point. The problem then becomes, I am ass at throw breaking. I've tried setting the CPU to do it, I've tried using anticipation(but maybe I'm not choosing my spots well)... Either way, I get grabbed. A lot.

I'm a bit of an older player, so perhaps my reflexes are just F-tier, but I don't think so. Average, sure, but not downright bad. So what can I do to improve this skill? I don't wanna have to watch poor little Eileen eat Burning Hammer again.

 

You can hold a throw break while guarding now. IIRC, guard, press P, leave both pressed. Then it's just a matter of holding the right direction at the right time. Mashing every which way just reduces your chances.

 

Throw breaks have nothing to do with reaction in FS, you can hold G~P along with a direction for as long as you like and it'll break the throw in that direction always, plus you'll block.

 

...Wow. I knew they'd simplified the system greatly, but not that much. Feeling pretty dense lol.

Thanks for the input guys!

 

Have you tried going abare more? Generally spaeaking abare beats out throw attempts. Just be carful because abare loses to counter hits.

 

I'm a normally active player who knows some of the game, but I think I struggle more with the counter throw mechanics, like I see some of the pros manage to escape throws in an instant, While I still have trouble with hitting it right on time like some tell me to hold +, but it's confusing trying to know which direction they are trying to throw you like say that wanted to do a half-circular throw would I just do a normal + just to counter?

 

it all is about the final direction of the throw your opponent does. thats the joystick command direction you need to hold.

 

What is the window of opportunity for a break? Example, during the Burning hammer animation, when is the point where I can safely say "oh, I'm screwed"? Thanks.

 

I don't know the technical details so take this with a grain of salt, but I find at least online if you see yourself being grabbed and you haven't already inputted a throw escape, you are pretty fucked. I feel like I can throw escape on reaction in the dojo, but you add some slight input delay and the factor of having to worry about other options and that becomes far more difficult.

I have alot of trouble with the throw escape guard, it's really unnatural to hold forward and P while guarding to me, and I always forget to do it untill I get thrown a few times for free... but it's slowly becoming more and more natural.... use it even if you struggle like me if you don't....wise players win for free.

EDIT: also since nobody else mentioned it, the logic behind the throw directions generally is this. Forward throws are generally the higher damage big throws most characters want to land, back throws are generally a little less damage but good for positioning or just to mixup when you know your opponent is afraid of the front throw, neutral throws are lower damage but rarely do people escape neutral so they are a good almost sure thing. There are exceptions like akira has that amazing back throw you can combo off of, so knowing what the character can do is important.

I am a noob though so please do correct me if I am wrong on anything.

 

The throw escape window is effectively 20 frames in total (10 frames before and after input). However, because of the simplified throw escape system, frames aren't necessarily important when breaking throws in VF5FS.

Rule of thumb: Always while you

Also, check this out:
http://virtuafighter.com/threads/vf5fs-easy-throw-escape.15823/

 

Thanks for the link and inputs everyone. Yeah, offline it's a totally different experience. And yes, I admit, before reading this thread, I thought the best way is to wiggle the joystick back and forth. Didn't know that holding it was better.

 

This is a bit of a tangent, but I think it will provide some additional value.

1. When I start to notice I'm getting thrown a lot, the first thing I ask myself is why that is. Sometimes it's because I'm standing there lazily and not holding down a throw input while I guard. This is usually the least likely reason. The most common reason is that I'm sidestepping too often and neglecting to do things like fuzzy guard. Playing as Brad, I often sidestep when I've got a slight disadvantage (like my opponent blocking my 2P). The more predictable your sidesteps become in these situations, the easier it is for your opponent to get a free throw everytime he blocks your set up. At the end of the round, take a moment to check in and see why you think you're getting thrown a lot.

2. Another reason that you might be getting thrown a lot is by someone with a great offense. If you're getting better at blocking most of their strings, good players will start interrupting those strings and throwing you instead of finishing them off. This is a key component to good play, so be prepared for this the better you get. As leftylizard said, this can be a situation where playing abare (especially aggressively) will benefit you. Going for a 2P at the point where you start to notice your opponent has been breaking out of their string can interrupt their own offense and allow you to restart your own.

3. Complexz makes a good point about throw directions in his post above. I've also noticed that throws that have 66P+G as their input are often the throws people use to close the gap. This makes sense, because the 66 provides a quick dash which can then lead into the throw (maybe you have to enter 666P+G to get this, but either way, you can close distance and throw more easily this way). As such, I notice people generally go with throws you need to cancel with 6 as their go to. Unless you see otherwise, make this the default throw you're guarding against.

4. Figure out which moves of yours are -5 or less disadvantage, and then practice fuzzy guarding after these moves (Push 2 and G, and then release 2 as soon as you see the duck animation begin. You'll duck under throws but return to standing in time to block mid-attacks).

5. When I'm really having a hard time dealing with my opponent's offense, I just commit to defending for a bit. I'll defend, holding P and 6, and see what they do. For most people, they'll chop away at you for a bit before going for a throw. Actually, it seems like quite a long time before they get to that point. Let them hack away until they throw you, and see if your throw break works. If it does, right on, you've just put some doubt into their mind. If it doesn't, you've collected new data (6 isn't their default throw direction), and changed up your playstyle (going from powerful offense to placid defense can really mess with people, especially if they don't get through).

At the end of the day, the best defence is about shutting down your opponent's best options and forcing them to stick with their safest ones. By blocking their strings, they either have to accept that they're going to do less damage, or that they need to start mixing in some throws. Once you start interrupting or punishing their throws, they will have to revert back to the safest option, and your offense can get started again.

 

Lately I've been working on muscle memory to always ETE(Evade Throw Escape) and TEG(Throw Escape Guard) when I flash yellow. Recognize and react to being counter-hit! Go in training mode, record the CPU doing Jab->Throw, Dick Punch ->Throw then get yourself Counter Hit. Once you get used to that, start implementing Forward and Back Throws to get yourself used to breaking different directions.

Remember when you flash yellow you are in the -6 to -9 range and can't duck the throw.

I prefer TEG instead of GTE because I feel it gives me a better understanding of my opponents timing instead of staying still waiting to react, so I feel mode confident on when I can press the advantage.

Reacting to throws on Normal/Neutral Hit is different but essential. record the same flow chart in the first paragraph. This time just get got with out doing anything, BUFFER 33 as get hit, remember this is Crouch Dash which you meex to duck the throw at -4 and -5,t he timing is stricter off than 2P since it leaves you -5 which is the lash possible frame you can duck the throw.in any capacity. Dick Punch leaves you at -4 on normal hit,

 

Can't you crouch dash up to -7 disadvantage? I could be wrong on that...

 

Throw escaping in FS is more like learning a new way to guard than to throw escape. Every single time I guard, high or low, I hold G~P, and maybe a direction of choice. I teach new players G~P as the default way to guard in this game, and I think that's the best approach.

Typo?

And toydingo, you can cd fuzzy at -5 or better (5f to crouch state). Taka can only fuzzy at -4.

 

You could be right - I didn't look and I'm actually pretty lazy about this myself. I just know the moves of Brad's that I need to fuzzy afterwards. I *think* it's crouch fuzzy on -6, CD fuzzy on -7. It might be 5 and 6 though.

Agree with Panda - reaction is great if you can get there, but I find focusing on guarding via G~P is much more valuable to master first.

 

You can crouch a throw at -3, and cd under it at -5.

 

GTE = Yutori.

-1 to -3 = Fuzzy Guard.

-4 and -5 = Crouch Dash Fuzzy Guard

-6 to -9 = Two Choice(Nitaku). You cannot duck the throw AT ALL. ETE, TEG, GTE(Yutori) are your choices on defense.

 

You are wrong, until you read post above to correct yourself and know It lIke the back of your hand.

 

YOu need to know this if you want to learn to play VF. This is the critical basics.